Tuesday, June 30, 2009

What's up...

Hello All,
We've been seeing a lot of rain the last week, it mostly dumps fast and stops. The trails of water on the roads are incredible and the potholes continue to grow. When you feel the hard ground hit the centre of the car bottom it shakes your bones.

We are finding it a challenge to buy things for the schools with the money from GordonHead United Church. There are lots of things to buy EVERYWHERE but not in large quantities. Yesterday with the help of friends we found a two level shop in an industrial area that sells just about eveything and most things seem to have come from China. We bought a few soccer balls, and some pencils, crayons, sharpeners etc. but we still have lots to buy.

Surprisingly it was Tony who was melting in the shop and was itching to get outside. I was in my glory as there were so many new things to look at. I bought a scale there for about $5 and now know that all the rich food I've been eating hasn't been sweated off...laughter...

We were able to buy a TV for the house and the kids were thrilled to watch the Bernie Mac show and the Cosby show while they ate breakfast this morning. Now the kids who live at the house will be able to see their Ghana movies more clearly.

Yesterday was our anniversary, 18 years. We didn't do anything special but maybe we will come back here for our 20th anniversary and have a party. They like to have parties here!

We were driving through the usual exhaust filled traffic yesterday and Charity got sick...not surprising...motion sickness mixed with eating different foods and breathing in black smoke from big trucks...but she bounced back quickly and is feeling great now.

We are out of children's Gravol already and I thought my pharmacy was well stocked...I hadn't anticpated how much driving we would be doing and thought Gravol would only be for the plane. It takes forever to get anywhere in the Capital area and you never know exactly how long it might take...plus the bumpy roads...so Gravol is another must have for those of you getting ready to travel to Ghana! I can probably buy something similar here but I haven't been inside a pharmacy yet...pharmacies are stand alone and we just haven't stopped at one yet (I'm thankful for that because it means we haven't needed anything!)

We were supposed to go to Cape Coast today but the beach resort we were hoping to stay at is all booked up until later in July. So, we will go tomorrow to a more moderate hotel...we will likely just stay one night.
The draws of Cape Coast are the Castles and Kakum National Park. The Castles were built in the time of slavery and you can see the "door of no return" in the dungeons of the castle (a damp and scary place where you can imagine all the people who passed through the cramped tunnels so long ago). In Kakum National Park there is a maze of suspension bridges where you can view the forest canopy usually seeing exotic birds. The other animals aren't usually around during the daylight.

The kids were lucky enough to see a monkey in a tree as we passed through the university...cool...I was sorry I missed it.

I hope to post photos once we get back from Cape Coast.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Priscilla's Engagement

Shots of yesterday's engagement...and my attempt at explaining how engagements happen in Ghana....

Ladies like to dress up...

Oliver accepting a gift from his "future-brother-in-law" Catering team...

The bride-to-be Priscilla...



The Groom-to-be...


A white bible is always part of the engagement gifts from the man's family to the woman...the list of gifts is extensive...from pots to a sewing machine to whisky...

We had some trouble with rain filling up the canopies we rented but that didn't "dampen" the event at all...

Cleaning up all the water before the guests arrive...
Charity and I with Albert (Priscilla's oldest son)
Charity had fun in her African dress...it was quickly assembled from the cloth I bought for Lisa...don't worry Lisa it's still in one piece!


All dressed up for the occasion...Charity and I with Grandma and some uncles...
Charity playing Ludo with her cousin Rachel while Albert stays glued to his Auntie Charity...Chief Oliver...laughter...

Tony with the Mother-of-the-bride
Oliver and Charity with their new Brother-in-law

The Bride in her Party Dress
Dancing with an Auntie...
Yesterday we hosted about 200 people at the house for our niece's engagement. Because Tony's elder brother passed away in 1994 it means that Priscilla his only daughter will now see Tony as her father. In turn our kids become her siblings and Aunt and Uncle to her children. This meant that Tony and the kids played a role in the ceremony. It was very interesting.
I still don't quite get the whole process but I will do my best to explain what little I understand.
In Ghana marriage happens in 3 stages. First the groom-to-be goes to visit the bride-to-be's family and expresses his intentions to marry her. Once the family agrees the couple is free to live together and start a family. They should then set a date for an enagement, which is a fairly complicated ceremony of bringing two families together and the man's family bringing a whole lot of gifts (a dowry) to the women's family. Many people come to witness the ceremony. It is a marriage of two families not just two people...it continues with drinking and eating and dancing...similar to our wedding receptions...it is hosted by the women's family.

Later the couple should set a date for a marriage which can be a church wedding and of course another party.

Random pics at home...

The children from the school enjoying the music from the engagement party at the house.




I have added to my well stocked pharmacy...I brought a whole lot of expensive insect repellent from Canada and found that it works for some bugs but not others and feels toxic on the skin...like wrapping yourself in stinking plastic....but here I discovered super cheap (80 pesewas a tube (less than 80cents)) and it goes on like moisturizer and surprise....it works!!....so for any of you who are coming to Ghana (Erin) don't pack too much Repellent because you can pick this stuff up anywhere.
The only real must haves are a flash light, sun screen and a good pair of flip flops...I have put a whole lot of miles on my Pharmasave flip flops...even my sandals feel too hot...everyone wears flip flops (but they call them "challie wortey"...I don't know how they spell it though..but it means "Charlie lets go walking"...guys in Ghana all call their friends Charlie..:)



Carrying fresh plantains into the kitchen.
Richard who lives at our house and some of his friends are trying to earn a few extra bucks. They have bought a whole lot of T-shirts in various colours and using their visual arts talents they have done Obama silk screening. Obama is coming to Ghana soon and Richard and his buddies will be ready! Many of the t-shirts feature Obama with the word Akwaaba which means Welcome in Twi (the most common language in Ghana)




The school at the house finishes between 3 and 4 but because of the parents work and traffic some kids get picked up much later. There isn't an official after school program and the parents don't pay any extra for after school hours, so the kids are left to entertain themselves...this is common and accepted...nobody would understand why it should worry you...people just casually look out for each other's kids, and parents just assume that their kids will be okay...it's a completely different way of thinking.

This is Tetteh using a stick to get mangoes from the tree for us to eat...YUMMY
This is Coby, he is a student at the school who lives with the teacher and helps out around our house...it's not a boarding school but I assume that he is from the teachers village and they want to help his family out by bringing him to be educated and in turn he helps around the house. He is eight years old.

This is my attempt at pounding palm nuts for palm nut soup...it's a good way to get your aggressions out :)

Random things that interest me around Accra...

Standard Bank in Central Accra
The gutters in Ghana are about six or more inches wide and more than a foot deep. I wonder how many pedestrians or cars fall into the gutter? Everything is sold outside...EVERYTHING!!






I grabbed a few shots from the top of a parkade in the heart of the city...it was the hottest day yet and I can't imagine the folks who have to work in this heat.












That's the ocean beyond the bank tower.




These women have one of the worst jobs I can imagine...they have huge metal tubs. They are available for hire in the market, they will follow you and carry your purchases in their tub on their head. It was so hot and they were resting on the sidewalk while they waited for their next job. Can you imagine the the toll it would take on your body?



There are lots of banks in Ghana, there are small branches around town with big main branches downtown...much the same at in Canada but because there is little use of credit or debit cards there are huge lines in the bank because everyone uses cash.


The Ghana Cedi was redenominated just about one year ago. Everywhere we go people still quote prices in the old cedis. So they say so many thousand cedis but they mean some few cedis or for example you ask how much for a phone card and they say 75 but they mean 7 cedis and 50 pesewas.


The Court House




Stadium

Independence Square
Court House
This is a common scene, the woman is selling plastic bags of drinking water "iiccce ssswaater". It is fairly cheap 5 pesewas which is less than 5 cents. These water bags are supposedly filled will clean water and have apparently helped reduce the number of water born illnesses in the country. The down side is that you see the empty plastic bags littered everywhere.
This very old woman was walking in traffic with styrofoam blocks for sale.

An Abundance of People

If there is one thing Ghana has it is a labour force. There are people available to help with literally everything. A lot of a businesses profits must go into staffing.

A good example is security, at the university there are security guards at all the buildings.
You have to check with them before you can enter any building and they will approach you before you even get close. The interesting thing is that once you let them know who you want to see they will walk you to find their department and make sure you stop at the main office. Then a secretary will walk you to their office. The system isn't always the same but you can be guaranteed that someone will be showing you your way no matter how far.

It is much the same in a supermarket, there are workers probably watching for shoplifting who if asked will take you to what you want. They don't just point the way as in most places in Canada, they actually take you there. Then in the smaller supermarkets after you pay for your stuff you go to another desk where they look over your receipt and check it to what you have. Then another guy puts the stuff in a box and a security guard guides your way out of the parking lot.

Parking lots always have attendents with the exception of the Accra Mall (which is just like home except that folks drive through the lot as if they are on the road, fast and impatient). Sometimes there are two parking attendents advising you to park in two different places...VIP parking everywhere.

The tro-tros that shuttle people all over the country are basically vans with seating for maybe 10 but often filled with more people. The driver of the tro-tro only drives...he has a mate who hangs out the window and shouts their destination to attract passengers then seats the passengers and takes their money...it makes for quick stops.

The cell phone companies are making use of the huge number of young people looking to make a buck. They give them Tshirts to advertise the company and drive them around on the back of a flat bed truck with huge speakers blasting music.
I could do a whole blog just on cell phone companies (everyone here has a cell phone and some have as many as 3...I guess if one company is not working they can use their other number)....and they all have super loud tunes...the cell phones volume actually offers a louder volume than those in Canada...and nobody turns off their phone...we heard phones ringing in church and yesterday during our nieces engagement there were a few rude folks answering and chatting away during the ceremony.
I think the cell companies also give free paint to kiosks because the roads are all bright with Red (Vodafone), Yellow (MTN) and Purple (Zain). Tony has MTN and Oliver and I both have Vodafone but we haven't noticed a big difference in service so far. The cell phones don't tell you how many minutes you get for your money they only tell you how many units you have or how much money is left...so you really have no idea how much it is costing you. I know that I called my Mom and chatted for 30 minutes and it cost approx. 5 cedis which is slightly less than $5 so I thought that was fair....this post has lost it's direction...but I hope you find it interesting...I would love it if you register has a follower and comment on my posts...it's nice to know that I have an audience for my babbling.
singing off Jodi

Driving at Night!

Last week we visited friends and in wanting to avoid traffic we drove home after 10pm. It seems that 10pm is the witching hour...after that you have police checks all over the place. It should make you feel safer because they have had problems with armed robbery so they are cracking down.

It is an incredible challenge to keep your sense of direction in the daylight but at night it is beyond possible.

Thankfully Tony is comfortable with asking for directions. Every few minutes we would pull to the side of the road and he would yell "hey boss" to any guy on the side of the road (there is always someone on the side of the road). The people are always willing to help...although they don't always know what they are talking about. It was these many good Samaritans who helped to eventually find our way home.

The police checks are a little intimidating, they shine a flashlight into the car while a big rifle is hanging from their shoulder. While Tony was asking one police officer if we were following the right route he reached to point the way and his gun was swinging close to my face....I prefer to sleep over and leave the night driving to somebody else!!

Many of the confusing situations on the road are actually signs of progress. There is construction all over the greater Accra area...once it is finished the roads will be nice (but I'm sure the drivers will still fit 3 lanes in one).
In the meantime, they don't maintain the temporary roads and they just move them around any obstacle. Sometimes it seems you are driving in a circle...or navigating two lanes of traffic between concrete walls and the space is only slightly wider than a sidewalk.

Maps here would be relatively useless, the roads change all the time and there are circles and round-a-bouts with several branches.

Every once in a while you will see a sign board with the direction of the next large town posted with an arrow..but you might get a ways down that road and someone will tell you "oh you shouldn't turn that way because the road is too rough"...so you have to turn back and find your way to an alternate route....once again "Hey Boss"!!

The first time Tony asked a guy for directions he started in English then switched to Twi (the most popular language in the country/outside of the captial) then Ga (the language of the capital) and instead of giving directions the guy said "Hey, where are you from??"...too funny...:)

University of Ghana





The tower at the highest spot on the univesity campus can be seen for miles around. It has helped us when we get confused in traffic.




A view of the surrounding area from the University.










Gateway near the great hall.






The tower from the base.







The Great Hall.